It has been nearly 3 weeks since our last blog post. Internet access and time have been sparse as we have paddled the last 30 days in a row!
We are in Atalya now and, while we do have internet, it is not good enough for photo updates.
But here is a bit of an update from the past week. I realize there is a big gap which we will have to fill in later…
This is taken from emails we have sent to our friends and family who have been wondering if we are still alive.
Enjoy! Next update will be in about 7 days from Pucallpa. Please excuse all spelling errors as there is no English spell check on this computer and I suck at spelling.
We have made it to Atalaya–yeah! This means we have completed Phase 1 of the trip–The Whitewater.
We have also completed the Rio Ene y Rio Tambo. Left in our phase 2 (Red Zone) is the Rio Ucayali, which will probably take us 7 more da
SO FAR, our experience of the red zone has been quite pleasant. Most
people were very friendly and once they saw that we had all our
paperwork in order–permission letter from Ministry of Tourism and
permission letters from the Indigenous groups of the Rio Ene and Rio
Tambo–they were quite happy to have us there and pass.
We had a couple of weird things happen like a group of Asheninka
Indians were calling us over by waving at us from a far away bank. As
it was not an official check point and we weren’t 100% sure if they
were calling us or waving at us we did not stop promptly. After our
motorized canoe told us to stop we did. The Asheninkas were a little
bit drunk and yelled at our guide Cesar for not radioing ahead to
tell them we were coming. Then, very nicely, they proceeded to
appologize to us for being angry but explained that we had to
understand that they had to control the area because there have been
problems in the past with childern disapearing and gringos stealing
their organs…so, it turns out these myths really do exist down here!
Then they made Cesar do 50 push ups on the beach as his punishment
for not calling ahead.
The most logical explanation for how these stories about people
stealing their children and their children’s organs we have heard is
that often children will go swimming and end up drowning (aka
dissapearing). They say there is a “parasitic catfish” in the rivers
up here that eats its prey from the inside out. So the kids drown,
the catfish eat them (from the insides) and then people find them days
later dead with all their insides missing. I am not sure if this is
true either, but it is the best explanation we have heard…
Today as we were approaching Atalya someone yelled from shore “oye,
pela cara” (hey, peeled face) at us. But other than these 2 things,
everyone has been extremely nice and helpful to us. Let’s just hope
that this luck continues!
Today was our 30th day in a row of paddling. We are all feeling a
little wee bit tired, and so are taking a rest day tomorrow. So
please do NOT be alarmed when you don’t see any movement on the
We have seen nice scenery so far and are well into the jungle now.
But it took a while, 95% of the Mantaro was desert and catus was the
dominant plant. From the confluence with the Apurimac, up until
yesterday the rainforest looked more like New England…we were in a
part that people call the dry forest (I think) and when it is the dry
season–such as it is now–many of the trees lose their leaves. There
were places where 75% of a hillside was trees with no leaves.
But now we are into the “normal” rainforest as we know it. And, even
though it is the dry season, it has been raining for 3 days straight!
We have seen the following:
Another Deer that looked much like a N. American deer but darker brown/grey
Water Dog–an oversized otter than can swim but prefers shore
A real Otter
Cesar, our guide for the red zone, saw a Capybara, but we did not:-(
We have seen more parakeets than I can count, tons of macaws, tiger
herons, regular herons, eagles, hawks, osprey, cormorants and lots of
other birds we can not identify.
We have seen 2 billion ankle biters, but very few mosquitos so far.
In a response to this email, I also generated DAY TO DAY LIVING: